A day in Kollam

Day Eight - I1th February 2019

'Relaxing' day on the beach



So far, every day had been busy, so we took the opportunity of having a day of relaxation.  But that did not mean we could have a long lie in bed.

Our host, Francis, had told us about the turtles that were laying eggs on the beach close by, so we made him promise to wake us if they came ashore, and also to make sure we were up to see the fishermen bring in their catch.  

There was no early morning call for the turtles as the sea was too rough, but we did watch the fishermen return.  We had watched them out to sea the previous evening as their lamps glowed across the water, but we could only share their disappointment as the product of a night's work was very small. However, we were shown the different types of fish that had been caught, and then watched as the nets were repaired and folded ready for the next night's work.

After a delicious breakfast, served on our balcony, we went for a short walk and had a light lunch in a local cafe.  We had expected to be taken out by Francis, but his plans changed, so instead we went for a long - very long and hot - walk along the beach road, which lies between the Arabian Sea and the backwaters. We passed fishermen's huts and tents, with their boats on the beach and went along the long Lakshmipuram and Mayyanad Beaches which are well rated, but were empty. At one point, we came across a little church that had only been dedicated days before.  I walked to the side to try to get a good angle for a photograph, and found that it had no walls. It was so clean and well looked after that I felt I could not go inside as I was covered in sand from the beach.

Mayyanad Beach

We expected to come across a tuk tuk to carry us home, and eventually crossed the Pozhikkara spillway, which links the backwaters with the sea, into Paravur before we found one.

We arrived back at the homestay late - our host had expected us to eat at 6pm, like other 'English'. It was another amazing meal of fish caught that morning. Afterwards, we enjoyed a chat with the other homestayers, a delightful Indian couple.

Our day of 'relaxation' had not been so relaxing, but it was enjoyable, interesting and ended well.

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Photo gallery

A photo gallery

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Single row, 3 columns
but without the lightbox effect


Single row, 3 columns with Blogger captions - OK for single line captions

Francis waiting...

Thangassery Light House

Madonna and Christ St Anthony's Church

hree columns, with captions in table

Francis waiting ...	Thangassery Light House	Madonna with Christ St Anthony's Church

Three columns, with captions in table

Francis waiting ...	Thangassery Light House	Madonna with Christ St Anthony's Church

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Kollam tour

Day 9 - 12th February 2019

Kollam

Up early again to watch the night's catch being landed on the beach outside our room.  Again it was too rough for turtles and dolphins, but it was a glorious sunrise and today there was much excitement and happiness as each boat came in.

The anchovies were running, and the race was on to be the first to market.

Carrying anchovies to market	Boats at the main Kollam fish market

After breakfast, Francis, our host, took us in his tuk tuk to a local festival at a temple. Four elephants arrived, and were fed, and then 'the largest elephant in Kerala' made his appearance, and dutifully saluted the gods.  Festivites like Annayottu, or Mass feeding of Elephants, are very typical to Kerala as to celebrate the happiness of Ganapati through elephant worship.

We watched part of a 'poor man's' kathakali performance, and and met several kind people who explained to us all about the festival. Everyone was very accommodating, and we were the only Europeans present.

We opted not to have lunch at our homestay, which was probably a mistake, but returned there for a rest before we were agin taken in the tuk tuk to the main Kollam market.  It was quieter than usual as three boats had capsized that morning in the rough seas. Fortunately, there were no casualties.

Thangassery Light House.	Francis in his tuk tuk	Madonna with Christ St Anthony's Church

We then went on to a British built lighthouse. The Thangassery Light House is the tallest lighthouse in Kerala!  It had a lift, but we opted to climb the 193 steep steps. I was a bit sceptical about this, but it was worth the climb with good views over the town.

We then moved on the Monroe Island.  I asked to stop at St. Anthony's church in Vaddy, Kollam. It has 700-year recorded history and the present structure is 100 years old. The present structure of the Vaddy church is the third one during its 700-year history. The earlier structures had been washed away by the sea.

I could tell that Francis was not keen to linger, and we then had a harem scarem journey weaving in and out of the traffic. Much to his frustration, we arrived just as the ferry was leaving, but this allowed time for a cup of chai.

When it returned, the queue had built up, but we all squeezed on, and on getting off, we continued at a fast pace even though the traffic was light.

We had a date with a boatman who was to take us out on a cruise through the backwaters on a small boat.  The reason for the rush became apparent when we arrived at the appointed place, and arch in the mangroves, through which we were to observe the setting sun.


This was a magical experience.  On our way back, we were dropped off at a temple festival, where the highlight was the young men rolling on the ground around a temple lit by 1,000 candles. Picked up by Francis, he then took us back to the first temple to watch the continuing festivities.  We arrived in time to see a procession of brightly decorated floats, accompanied by dancers and finally highly decorated elephants.  

Sunset in the Mangroes	Festival at xxx

Again, individuals and groups of people were extraordinarily friendly and helpful - and supportive as the crowds were psyched up! Francis returned to pick us up and we went back to the homestay for an evening meal, picking up his wife and daughter en route.

A new couple had arrived, and so we all travelled together in the tuk tuk to the late night kathakali performance.  There were about a dozen of us present when the show started - were they waiting for us?  After an hour or so of nods and winks, finger flicking and pointing, we were no the wiser as to the story being told, so slipped awy at 12:30am knowing there were still another 3-4 hours to go.

An so ended our last day in Kollam - a wonderful few  - too few - days.

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The Houseboat

Day 12 - 15th February 2019

A Houseboat Cruise on the Backwaterss of Alleppey

Packed up and ready to go, we were collected from the Tharavad homestay by our host.  I had been a little unsure about taking a large suitcase on board a boat, but what we had hired was not what I had been expecting.

A bridge over a canal was being repaired and the road closed so we set of on foot for the last part of the journey to the jetty in Punnamada.  I overheard a bit of a conversation between our host and F., but did not have time to ask about it.  I was not sure she had understood what I thought was being offered. And it was all an adventure, wasn't it?

The 'salon'	Our houseboat	The bedroom

The houseboat was called over from the other side of the lake and we were soon on board and settling in.  This was definitely not what we were expecting!  It was a floating disco.

Soon we cast off, being looked after by the captain and a chef, who provided a curry lunch. We had briefly stopped whilst he jumped off and bought some provisions, and then stopped again whilst we ate.  The captain took the opportunity for a swim - or was it a bath?  The waters are none too clean, but folk who live on the river use the river.

Our largish - the were many many sizes bigger - boat did not fit into some of the smaller canals and rivers, and so a small boat was provided for a mini cruise, along delightful waterways with people living and working on the banks.  Our timings coincided with school coming out, and we saw a couple of school water buses dropping off children along the way.

There were to be two such mini cruises, but we now discovered what that conversation had been about.  Our houseboat pulled up alongside a massage parlour, and were ushered inside. This had replaced the second boat trip. And it was not on my agenda.

F. was taken off and was told to remove all her clothes, whilst I was allowed to retain a dhoti.  After much pummeling, it was time to settle up, when I discovered I had insufficient funds. However, the captain produced Rs 1,000 and we were on our way again, missing the sunset as we had been still inside. At this point, F. was offered the only bottle of beer on the boat.

At one of our stops, I had been persuaded to buy something for the evening meal at a small fish market, and chose crab.  It was only when were again on our way that I realised that dinner was included in the price, and so now I had paid twice. Fortunately, the crab was very well prepared and I really enjoyed my meal.

I had not anticipated the little bitey things that also wanted their evening meal, and had not applied insect repellent  With the boat stationery, they had plenty of opportunity, not just now, but as I watched the sun come up at dawn the following morning.

The boat was tied up whilst we slept, and only moved on after breakfast, returning us to Punnamada after a short cruise, where our taxi was waiting for us, the arrangements having been made by our host in Alleppey with our host at our next stop in Munnar.

We had not made use of the flashing lights and large speakers - but there is always next time.

Before we could depart, I was due to be taken by the captain on his motorbike to an ATM, but instead, the taxi driver was to settle up for me.

And yes, it was well worth the money we paid for our houseboat.

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A Day in Alleppey

Day 11 - 14th February 2019

A day in Alleppey

Breakfast was served in an open area of the homestay. We had not said what we would like to eat, and so European food was provided.  This was good, but not what we were looking for.

Once I had arrange for the dhobi (laundry) we walked through hot streets to the Alasr see how best to arrange a houseboat for the following night.  The owner was not there, but his wife said the he would ask us to get in touch to help us. Meanwhile, she kindly gave us a tour of the building, which was built around courtyards.  We were shown the room we would have been allocated.  Smaller than the one we had, it was also very noisy.  There was a temple festival in progress next door. Several pilgrims were using the homestay as a base. Even though this room had a balcony, we now knew the move to the Tharavad had been a very good decision!. 

The Tharavad, where we were staying, did not serve an evening meal, but one of the reasons we wanted to stay at the Alasr was because the cooking had a good reputation.  So, we booked in for an evening meal.  We also saw evidence of the families support for a local orphanage school.  They give a large share of the profits to the school.

It became apparent that the owner was not going to come back soon, and so we agreed to meet him when we came for our meal.

We were advised where to go for a local market, but this proved to be just a shopping street. We bought some spices, and I bought a short sleeved shirt - except when I got it home, it had long sleeves! We cooled off in a friendly little cafe where we had freshly squeezed orange juice.

Without a clear plan for the day - without any plan for the day - as there was not much to see that appealed to us in the town, bu hired a tuk tuk to take us first to the British built lighthouse and then to a beach out of town.

The red and white striped lighthouse, founded in 1862, has panoramic views & a small history museum. We looked down of a former swimming pool which looked as though it had never recovered from the August 2018 floods which devastated much of the state.  There is a little museum with lighthouse artifacts.


Alappuzha, the place where India's Alleppey Lighthouse stands, was one of the busiest ports and trade centers of Kerala. Alappuzha, a part of Travancore, was ruled by Rajas of Erstwhile Travancore before India's independence. After the arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch and English traders, Vizhinjam, Kollam, Travancore and Purakad were the main ports of Erstwhile Travancore through which foreign trade flourished. 

We moved on to a beach outside the town and then raced back to Alleppey to watch the sun setting over the Arabian Sea.

We were the only diners at the Alasr, but the food was well cooked and the meal enjoyable.  The owner arrived to discuss the arrangements for a houseboat. It turned out he owned one, and this is what he had arranged for us.  It was not at all what we had expected, being larger and much more expensive. But, by then, we felt that time was running out to go elsewhere, so bargained a price reduction and accepted what was offered.  Is Rs10,000 (about £100) too much for lunch, dinner, bed and breakfast and a river cruise?

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Departure

Day 19 - 22nd February 2019

Leaving India

With warnings about travel times to the airport, and a 9:30am flight departure, we wanted to be sure not to miss the flight, so were on the road by 5:30am in a taxi booked for us by the family. A light breakfast had been left out for us and the security man helped us with our luggage.

Kochi was only just waking up, there was no traffic and we arrived with plenty of time to spare.  The check in process was smooth, and were soon in the departure lounge where, after a few purchaes, we left our remaining money in a charity box.

The flight via Dubai went without a hitch and we were met by family.

It was all a wonderful experience, and are already making plans for our return to the Indian subcontinent.

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Kollam - and Punallar

Day 7 - 10th February 2019

Sea Castle Beach Homestay

Oh!  I do like to be beside the seaside, I do like to beside the sea
So, just let me be beside the seaside and I'll be beside myself with glee

Our train rolled slowly into Kollam Junction Railway Station, giving us plenty of time to get off.  Plenty of time, indeed, to take photographs of us getting off - something I wanted to do to emulate those travel documentaries.  Kollam Junction railway station is the second largest railway station in Kerala in terms of area and is one of the oldest railway stations in the state. The world's second longest railway platform is situated at Kollam railway station. 

We had emailed our homestay host to advise of our time of arrival and hoped the message had got through.  Being the only Europeans to get off the train, and perhaps the only ones on it, we were easy to spot by the tuk tuk driver who was waiting to collect us, and who greeted me with 'Frances'.  A bit surprised as that was my travelling companion's name, it took a moment to clear up the confusion as 'Francis' was our hosts name.  We tuk tuked our way through Kollam, where the driving was frenetic, even though the traffic was calmer than we had experienced the day before in Madurai, through narrow streets and along canal banks and arrived at the beach amongst the palm trees.

Wow!

As we unloaded our bags, I realised one was missing. Whilst taking photographs getting off the train, I had left my overnight bag on board.

We were greeted by our hosts, shown our room, and served breakfast on the veranda, looking out over the Arabian Sea.





There were some fishermen on the beach, tending their nets.  We were advised we would need to be up early the next morning if we wanted to see them bringing in their catch.

Our host telephoned the station, and a short time later received a call to say that my bag had been found, and was now with the railway police at the end of the line, Punalar.  A taxi was organised and we were soon on our way.  Punalar is only about 200ft above sea level, but having spent a week on the flat plains at sea level, we felt that were higher, with a cooler climate too. Apparently, though, Kunalar is the hottest place in Kerala. The road winding up through the valleys showed us a very different India from that we had seen to date.

The Punalur Railway Police Station is the one & only Railway Police Station in Kollam Rural District, which is presumably why we had to go there, rather than have it sent back down to Kollam. Our driver had been told to take us to nearby waterfalls, but we opted instead to view a British built suspension bridge which, at the time, had made a big difference to communications in the area. I was interested in how proud the Indians were of their British heritage.

We arrived at the station and found the police station, where I was reunited with my bag.  But not before I had checked the contents were all present. First out was a loo roll. The bag had been found by one of our travelling companions, and handed in.  Amazing!

We returned to the homestay, where we were served a delicious meal, cooked to our own specification as to strength of flavour. Kerala cooking is renowned, and Jacuelin lived up to the high stand expected.

Here, the bed was provided with a mosquito net, but I don't think we needed it as by the morning it was no longer around the bed and we were still intact.

And it was the end of the seventh day.

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Madurai

Day 6 - 9th February 2019

Madurai, and onwards



Before leaving Nemathanpatti on the next leg of our journey, I wanted to send the postcards that I had bought in Mahabalipuram.  F. had a touch of 'Dehli belly', so remained in the hotel til things settled down.

Meenakshi Amman Temple

A post office was marked on the map, and was supposed to have been a landmark for our arrival.  So, the instructions from the hotel staff as to how to find it seemed straight forward. I set off on foot.  I had not gone far, when the hotel security guard arrived on a moped.  He stopped me and pointed to a small hole in the wall, with a grill, that I had just passed. This was the post office.

A conversation ensued and it transpired that the post lady did not have stamps of the required denomination, so I was invited onto the back of the moped and we set off for Kanadukathan.  Finding the post office entailed touring streets I had not visited before, seeing mansions I had not seen before.  The postmaster advised me which denomination of stamps were required, but he did not have any either, so off we went again to a post office near the railway station.  This involved a cross-country journey passing a charming small temple which I would not otherwise have seen.  The stamps had doubled in price by now, but I stuck them onto the postcards and left them on the counter, wondering if they would ever reach their recipients.  They did, within a week.

I have always advised my children against hiring scooters, but if they did, to wear helmets.  But, hey, this is India!  And what fun.

Back to the hotel, and time to pack, have lunch and depart. The hotel had organised a taxi for us which was to take us to a couple of temples in Madurai before dropping us at the station. The drive to Madurai took a couple of hours, and the roads were relatively free of traffic til we reached the city limits - where we entered a traffic jam that we stayed in for the rest of our time in the city.  Madurai is on the holiday destination list of most tour operators, but we were glad that we had chosen a different option. Perhaps we did not experience the 'true India' by not staying in one of the cities, but we so enjoyed being in Nemathanpatti , and what was to come was even better.

Main gate to Meenakshi Amman Temple

A visit to Madurai is unthinkable without including going to the Meenakshi Amman Temple, one of the oldest and most important temples in India. The temple has a great mythological and historical significance. It is believed that Lord Shiva assumed the form of Sundareswarar (the handsome one) and married Parvati (Meenakshi) at the site where the temple is currently located. Renowned for its astonishing architecture, Meenakshi Temple was nominated as one of the wonders of the world, but couldn’t make it into the list of ‘Seven Wonders of the World’. However, the temple is definitely one of the ‘Wonders of India’. It is also one of the main attractions of South India with thousands of devotees thronging it every day. During the ‘Tirukalyanam Festival,’ which takes place over a period of 10 days, the temple attracts more than a million devotees. 

Meenakshi Amman Temple interior

The complex is in the center of the city and instantly stands out with its towering gopurams. 13 acres of fascinating shrines, a golden lotus sacred pool and mandapas waiting to be explored. The heart of the temple was out of bounds for us, but we could still have spent hours here and without being able to explore it all!  Shoes and cameras are handed over, for a fee, before gaining entry, so the photographs are not ours.  Our taxi driver waiting had dropped us off some distance away, leaving is to walk through the throng of market stalls. We might have been better to set a time and place for a pickup, though he seemed to know a back-court where he could wait. 

Thirupparamkunram Murugan Temple

The Thirupparamkunram Murugan Temple, around 20 minutes southwest of Madurai, is an impressive ancient temple, dedicated to Hindu god Murugan (handsome son of Lord Shiva), who's revered as a favourite god of Tamils. 

The ancient structure is breathtaking in architecture particularly because it’s rock-cut. Another distinct feature is the placement of the gods, Shiva and Vishnu, who face each other. Considering Shaivites and Vaishnavites have always been two different groups, this aspect sets the temple apart.

We had been dropped off about a quarter of a mile from the temple, and made our way along a busy street full of traders and their customers, and on arrival were met by a self-appointed guide who showed us where to pay to leave our shoes, and then conducted us around the temple. He was not averse to pushing women out of the way to ensure we had the best views, and showed us how to pray. Much bobbing and bowing was involved. Were we on candid camera? Or am I being sacrilegious? There was a small elephant in the temple.  I initially thought I was being shown Shiva, but no, it was the real thing, in a side chamber.

It was the end of the day, and our photographs did not do the place justice, so this image is not ours.  There is another ancient temple on top of the hill, but even then, we reckoned it was too hot to climb. 

It was now time to head for the station to let our driver get home.  We would be early for the train, but felt we did not need a taxi any longer.  The thought of spending four hours in a railway station did not appeal, but we were surprised at how quickly the time passed.  Once we had identified which platform at Madurai Junction we would be using, we settled down on the plaza outside the station to wait.  Us, and a hundred other, ever changing, group of people.

Behind us, were two men, lying on the earth in what might have been a small garden, who had settled for the night. In front, people who were organised for their wait, with mats to sit on and their evening meal to eat.

One small group of mother, grandmother and child beckoned to us and made signs of writing. I deduced that the mother wanted a pencil for her son.  Begrudgingly, because I had thought not to bring any, I gave up my pen. As I got up to approach them, the boy went into hysterics. Clearly a white man was terrifying!. It soon became apparent that the pen did not work, so I found another, and again set the boy off caterwauling.

Finally, the large display screen reported the impending arrival of our train, and so we set off to board it.  This involved climbing, carrying our luggage, onto a railway bridge to cross the tracks, and descending to the platform. We were able to go down on a newly installed escalator.  But a multi generational family got there first.  And they had never encountered an escalator before. With much shouting from a man behind, the elderly lady was first the brave this phenomenon, but failed to let go of her daughter, who certainly was not going down til it was proved afe to do so.  Granny was retrieved, and the family turned around looking for a safer way to descend.

There train arrived and we found our carriage. There were no lights, but the whole crowd of us bundled on board.  F. found signs indicating berth numbers, but no beds!  It was pointed out to us that these had been folded down, and needed to be erected.  Job done and the lights came on, and fans started whirring. Things were looking up.

Our 'compartment' had three tiers of bunks on each side, and three across the corridor.  Any fool can be uncomfortable, and it looked as though I was in that category for the next ten hours.  I am not sure what class of sleeper train we were in, but these had been the only tickets on offer, at Rs 500 for a near 400km journey, we did not complain. Our journey took us almost to the southern tip of India, but that passed unnoticed.  We had hoped to have time to spend a couple of days there, but are now saving that for another time.  The carriage had no windows, and with the shutters open, there was a pleasant supply of fresh air to keep us cool.  After dawn, food and chai sellers came on board at the various stops, but were not brave enough to try out their wares.  Once some of the overnight passengers left the train, commuters boarded, and so we folded up our beds to convert the compartment into a seating area.

An important factor if you have 'Dehli belly' is the state of the loos.  We were pleasantly surprised.

And then we were in Kollam.

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Kanadukathan

Day Four (2) - 7th February 2019

A hot walk into Kanadukathan

And it was the fourth day - and a hot one.

By arriving on the night bus, we had gained a day, and determined to make the most of it.  I suppose, if the Chettinad Heritage Hotel had a swimming pool, we might have lingered there, but the hotel staff recommended two temples a short walk away.

Kanadukathan Chettinadu Palace
(The Maharajah's House)
And, no, it did not rain when we were there! 

Chettinad is an area, but many refer to the small town of Kanadukathan as Chettinad. It is notable for its large mansions, probably in better repair than in our village, and for its 13 'famous' temples.  Their business acumen and diligence saw Chettind merchants become bankers and trade intermediaries in the latter period of British rule in India, and from the mid-19th to mid-20th centuries many families here amassed vast fortunes. They used these riches to build vast mansions, combining both architectural styles and materials from the places and cultures their trade saw them interact with, and the resultant homes are, to say the least, spectacular. The Maharajah's House is the most prominent of the mansions, but first we were temple collecting. 

Karaimal Azakakar Ayyanar temple

The Karaimal Azakakar Ayyanar temple was the first of the 'horse' temples we were to visit. It was a short walk from our hotel, but across the highway and railway line.  Fortunately, along the way, we were advised that there was a second temple beyond the first as otherwise we might never have reached it.  

Continuing along the track, we passed through a tranquil village and under an archway where we were greeted by loud fierce sounding dogs.  We had not had rabies jags, and so were wary.  The Sowntharanayagi Ammal Temple  has high walls and could not easily be seen, but we circumnavigated in the other direction and eventually arrived unscathed at the entrance.

We were the only visitors. I suspect it is not well visited, as it does not have any outstanding features, but is worth the walk if your itinerary is as gentle as was ours.

We retraced our footsteps passed the horse temple and then continued on our way to Kanadukathan. Apart from the mansions, we had noted that there was a weaving centre.  We could hear loud voices as we approached and on arrival were informed that it was closed.  No saree making, and now no weaving.

We walked around the town and called into one of the mansions being used as a restaurant, or tea house, where we had a cooling and relaxing drink. 



By now it was dark, and it was time for our journey back to the hotel.  But first I had to make my first withdrawl from an Indian ATM.  Would it like me?  Once I had sussed that the maximum was Rs 10,000 all went well.  We then hired a tuk tuk and returned to the hotel for our evening meal.  The dishes were served with an explanation of what we were eating, and how it had been prepared. There were just two other guests.

Sowntharanayagi Ammal Temple

See also:
•  Ayyanar horse temples
•  The Chettinad Merchants' Mansions

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Nemathanpatti

Day Four (1) - 7th February 2019

Nemathanpatti, in Chettinad

Nemathanpatti is a small community in Kanadukathan, most famous for its Chettinad cuisine and for the architecture of its houses, whose main entrances are shaped to resemble those of temples. Not being 'foodies', it was the buildings that brought us to this area of Tamil Nadu.

On arrival at the near deserted Karaikudi bus station at about 5:30am, we collected our thoughts over a cup of chai and a bite to eat.  We found the taxi rank without too much difficulty and negotiated a drive to our hotel. Our haggling powers were not as good as they could have been at this time in the morning, so we probably overpaid. There was some confusion as we drove around  Karaikudi before we made it clear that the Chettinad Heritage Hotel was in Nemathanpatti, and then toured another set of heritage mansions before finding where we were to stay.

Chettinad Heritage Hotel

Interior

   

Checking in to a hotel at 7am that was empty, and not expecting us til 4pm proved no problem - other than the room we thought that we had booked was still being finished.  Indeed, there was a pile of mattresses in the lobby waiting for their beds to be made. The staff struggled to wakefulness, and made us breakfast - and very good it was, too.

Although all the rooms had not been completed, we had not been the first guests, but this very recently refurbished former merchants house proved to be a wonderful place to stay, and base for touring the area.

Once we had settled into our room, we ventured out into the village. It became clear that the villagers had seen few Europeans as we were greeted with a great deal of interest, especially by the children.  We felt guilty that we had not brought pencils with us, as clearly there is a need.

This mansion was just across
the road from our hotel

By arriving on the night bus, we had gained a day, and were determined to make the most of it.  I suppose, if the Chettinad Heritage Hotel had a swimming pool, we might have lingered there, but the hotel staff recommended two temples a short walk away. Details of this excursion are on the next page.

That was hot and dusty, so after a clean-up in a well appointed shower room and siesta (it was already a long day), we we set out to investigate 'our' village.  We had already seen the 'palace' outside our hotel (above), but there were to be many more large, mostly crumbling mansions in this very small place. Most of the large mansions were in a poor state of repair, but the decaying magnificence reflects a prosperous past. The wealth that must have been here 100 years ago is incredible, and yet there were women drawing water from the pond just yards from our hotel.

The village has a warm, mellow feel about it, enlivened by children returning from school. Everyone we met was warm and welcoming, with the children keen to practice their English. The streets were relatively clean, and had a very safe feel to them. If you don't hanker after a noisy bight life, then this is the place to be.

Collecting water from the pond next to our hotel

A pediment on a mansion entrance

Later, after our evening meal and in need of cash, we searched for an ATM (cash machine). Expecting to find a 'hole in the wall' ATM, I failed to realise that they were mainly located inside small rooms set off the street.  We decided to go to Kanadukathan, and hired a tuk tuk. We took the opportunity to call into the  swish Visalem Hotel to see if it was possible to use their pool. It would have been if the hotel had not been full, and we offered its use on Sunday.  But we would be on the next stage of our adventure before then..

We found the ATM, and once I had mastered the cash limit (Rs10,000), helped by a kind local, dozens of notes of many different denominations came tumbling out.  We took a tuk tuk back to our hotel, and retired for the night.

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