Kanadukathan

Day Four (2) - 7th February 2019

A hot walk into Kanadukathan

And it was the fourth day - and a hot one.

By arriving on the night bus, we had gained a day, and determined to make the most of it.  I suppose, if the Chettinad Heritage Hotel had a swimming pool, we might have lingered there, but the hotel staff recommended two temples a short walk away.

Kanadukathan Chettinadu Palace
(The Maharajah's House)
And, no, it did not rain when we were there! 

Chettinad is an area, but many refer to the small town of Kanadukathan as Chettinad. It is notable for its large mansions, probably in better repair than in our village, and for its 13 'famous' temples.  Their business acumen and diligence saw Chettind merchants become bankers and trade intermediaries in the latter period of British rule in India, and from the mid-19th to mid-20th centuries many families here amassed vast fortunes. They used these riches to build vast mansions, combining both architectural styles and materials from the places and cultures their trade saw them interact with, and the resultant homes are, to say the least, spectacular. The Maharajah's House is the most prominent of the mansions, but first we were temple collecting. 

Karaimal Azakakar Ayyanar temple

The Karaimal Azakakar Ayyanar temple was the first of the 'horse' temples we were to visit. It was a short walk from our hotel, but across the highway and railway line.  Fortunately, along the way, we were advised that there was a second temple beyond the first as otherwise we might never have reached it.  

Continuing along the track, we passed through a tranquil village and under an archway where we were greeted by loud fierce sounding dogs.  We had not had rabies jags, and so were wary.  The Sowntharanayagi Ammal Temple  has high walls and could not easily be seen, but we circumnavigated in the other direction and eventually arrived unscathed at the entrance.

We were the only visitors. I suspect it is not well visited, as it does not have any outstanding features, but is worth the walk if your itinerary is as gentle as was ours.

We retraced our footsteps passed the horse temple and then continued on our way to Kanadukathan. Apart from the mansions, we had noted that there was a weaving centre.  We could hear loud voices as we approached and on arrival were informed that it was closed.  No saree making, and now no weaving.

We walked around the town and called into one of the mansions being used as a restaurant, or tea house, where we had a cooling and relaxing drink. 



By now it was dark, and it was time for our journey back to the hotel.  But first I had to make my first withdrawl from an Indian ATM.  Would it like me?  Once I had sussed that the maximum was Rs 10,000 all went well.  We then hired a tuk tuk and returned to the hotel for our evening meal.  The dishes were served with an explanation of what we were eating, and how it had been prepared. There were just two other guests.

Sowntharanayagi Ammal Temple

See also:
•  Ayyanar horse temples
•  The Chettinad Merchants' Mansions

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