A record of 18 days in Tamil Nadu and Kerala

Friday 19 April 2019

The Houseboat

Day 12 - 15th February 2019

A Houseboat Cruise on the Backwaterss of Alleppey

Packed up and ready to go, we were collected from the Tharavad homestay by our host.  I had been a little unsure about taking a large suitcase on board a boat, but what we had hired was not what I had been expecting.

A bridge over a canal was being repaired and the road closed so we set of on foot for the last part of the journey to the jetty in Punnamada.  I overheard a bit of a conversation between our host and F., but did not have time to ask about it.  I was not sure she had understood what I thought was being offered. And it was all an adventure, wasn't it?




The houseboat was called over from the other side of the lake and we were soon on board and settling in.  This was definitely not what we were expecting!  It was a floating disco.

Soon we cast off, being looked after by the captain and a chef, who provided a curry lunch. We had briefly stopped whilst he jumped off and bought some provisions, and then stopped again whilst we ate.  The captain took the opportunity for a swim - or was it a bath?  The waters are none too clean, but folk who live on the river use the river.

Our largish - the were many many sizes bigger - boat did not fit into some of the smaller canals and rivers, and so a small boat was provided for a mini cruise, along delightful waterways with people living and working on the banks.  Our timings coincided with school coming out, and we saw a couple of school water buses dropping off children along the way.

There were to be two such mini cruises, but we now discovered what that conversation had been about.  Our houseboat pulled up alongside a massage parlour, and were ushered inside. This had replaced the second boat trip. And it was not on my agenda.

F. was taken off and was told to remove all her clothes, whilst I was allowed to retain a dhoti.  After much pummeling, it was time to settle up, when I discovered I had insufficient funds. However, the captain produced Rs 1,000 and we were on our way again, missing the sunset as we had been still inside. At this point, F. was offered the only bottle of beer on the boat.

At one of our stops, I had been persuaded to buy something for the evening meal at a small fish market, and chose crab.  It was only when were again on our way that I realised that dinner was included in the price, and so now I had paid twice. Fortunately, the crab was very well prepared and I really enjoyed my meal.




I had not anticipated the little bitey things that also wanted their evening meal, and had not applied insect repellent  With the boat stationery, they had plenty of opportunity, not just now, but as I watched the sun come up at dawn the following morning.

The boat was tied up whilst we slept, and only moved on after breakfast, returning us to Punnamada after a short cruise, where our taxi was waiting for us, the arrangements having been made by our host in Alleppey with our host at our next stop in Munnar.

We had not made use of the flashing lights and large speakers - but there is always next time.

Before we could depart, I was due to be taken by the captain on his motorbike to an ATM, but instead, the taxi driver was to settle up for me.

And yes, it was well worth the money we paid for our houseboat.



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